LFW14

I was so relieved when London was next up on the roster and even more relieved that Milan is starting now.

Kate by Bruce Weber (my scan) 

Christopher Kane

This collection was all over the fucking place. Kane doesn't seem to have a coherent collection aside from pieces that could have been pulled out of Nicolas Ghesquiere's archive for Balenciaga (the LBD and the embroidered jacket). I did love the baggy suit, it's menswear inspired with a bit of romanticism thrown in. He ends the collection with hyper feminine layering of chiffon. It literally came out of nowhere but it's still pleasing none the less.

David Koma

Honestly, I don't follow David Koma. That being said, I'm not crazy about his collection. The only thing grabbing my attention is this full magenta look. Pantone color of the year? A lot of it. And it somehow doesn't read as insane. The structure and length of the coat hugs the inner guts of the matchy-matchy ensemble making it slightly (?) sensible.

 Joseph

Again, I don't follow Joseph. I just saw the photos and the designer is very pregnant. I'm sure that's why her collection was so comfortable. I worked with a girl throughout her pregnancy and it was definitely the most uncomfortable 9 months of her life, considering the baby was born at fucking 9lbs. I love these hugely oversized knits, its comfortable and you're encased in plush coziness. The baggy yet tapered wool slacks ain't so bad either. 

JW Anderson

SERIOUSLY. I LOVE THIS. This was the breath of fresh air I needed. This is how the cocoon shape was supposed to evolve, totally distressed and undone. Pairing the sleeves with a structurally tight bustier-ed torso and a flared skirt cleverly evens out the proportions. I'm so done with cocoon sleeves and tight skirts, they make anyone look like a weird uncomfortable body builder. I literally can't pick my favorite look, they're all so perfect. The oversized short sleeved turtlenecks are refreshing following the tight necks and restrained shapes.  The asymmetrical crops with the wide long pants and deconstructed dresses are giving me damsel in distress tease. It's romantic and gorgeous without being ouvertly so. You see the JW Anderson woman go from put together and modest to broken down and ending on a strong masculine note. This is what a coherent collection is. 

Tom Ford

 Tom Ford is all over the place. Expecting this man to make a coherent collection is like asking him to make minimal clothing. However, this is what we love about Tom. His extravagance is what brought him to the top, utter luxury. His opening looks reminded me of an old shot of Kate Moss by Bruce Weber (shown before the cut). It says a lot about how timeless those pieces are. Knee highs and pencil skirts aren't going anywhere. We see Tom for Gucci reincarnated into a black suit with a plunging neckline and perfectly tailored pants and a fur tank top. And as we all know, Tom Ford for Gucci is the epitome of 90s glamour. Do your thang, Tom, I ain't mad atcha.

KTZ

For the futuristic bad bitch in you, KTZ has got the goods. Unabashedly flashy is the name and here I am flirting hard. Somehow it has just enough black to ground the looks into reality. The bomber jacket dresses are so fun. Who wants to be serious all the time?