Comme Des Garçons
Rei has translated winter exhaustion into a look. Huge piles of sweaters, hugely oversized outerwear, skirts that look like blankets and half-on knits remind me of rolling out of bed (or not) during an icy storm.
Philo might need to take a vacation. I see a lot of borrowing in this collection, and it's cute but not the Philo I've come to know and love. Not only that, the styling is haphazard. Opening with nautical vintage glamor, going to oversized ribbed knits and closing with feathered (very Dries Van Noten) coats? I enjoyed some of the pieces separately but as a whole it came off uninspired.
Dries Van Noten
The minimalist in me wants to disregard this collection, however the shapes and tailoring are undeniable. It seems like minimalism is fading out for loud geometric prints and acid bright colors. I guess it's about time, it seems like a lot of regular minimalists are taking this route. I always adore Noten's fur placement and these trousers that mimic midi skirts are the update.
I haven't batted an eyelash at Gareth Pugh since I got over my fashionable-goth girl phase, but this I cannot ignore. Metallic plastic (?) covered in smudged fingerprints? It's so imperfect it's flawless. Clear plastic tops that extend past your face? This is effortless translated by aliens.
Pat McGrath has done it again. Who knew bleached brows could be so angelic? Paired with a sculpted eye, the attention is off the brows completely and right on the white rimmed eyes. Speaking of eyes, the tape eye lift isn't so bad either, all the girls looked like almond eyed queens.
Haider is dexterous, every collection so diverse from the other yet still have the signature sophisticated handsome woman effect. One thing I can always count on Haider for is pure polished decadence with an edge. Who doesn't want to dress like this on a daily basis?
Sculptural yet free flowing out of this world pieces. This is what I'd love to see out of a lot of designers (MMM mostly), breaking free of their sartorial rut and into a surreal imagination. Maybe not rut... But matter of wearability. Fashion is meant to invigorate the senses, not put them to sleep. Miyamae, you have my heart.
Jean Paul Gaulthier
Glamourous other worldly beauty. Stiff ribbed hoods, acid orange and reflective sheer green textiles; it doesn't get further into deep space than JPG.
Nicolas Ghesquiere my god you beautiful creature. He's turned LV into what Balenciaga should have been. I'm so enamored with the fitted shapes, it's so refreshing. Everything is so thoughtful and true to LV and Ghesquiere himself. The high collared jackets and shirts are reminiscent of Marc's better collections for LV, but with Nicolas's stamp. The color blocked pants reminded me of the sock-boot that were so innovative at Balenciaga. The branding on the handbags were so subtle and dainty, so not Marc - which is a good thing in my book. I feel complete now.
Most of the collection wasn't exactly impressive, that is until I got to the fringe looks. People that are trying to make fringe happen aren't doing it correctly, this is how it's done.
okay I'm tired now